Birding & Nature: Morocco
April 7-18, 2009
With an extension to North Morocco and Spain’s Andalusia: April 18-24
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Join us for an exotic adventure in the mountains, dry valleys and desert reaches of Morocco. Our journey begins in the famous market city of Marrakech. From here we venture south to cross the Atlas Mountains via the famous Tizi-n-Tichka pass (the highest in Morocco). We then explore the fascinating Draa Valley and southern deserts. A highlight of this incredible journey includes one night in a Bedouin desert tent camp, where night skies are some of the brightest on earth. From here we enjoy a 4WD mini-adventure within our birding safari into the Sahara.
Morocco has a rich and mixed cultural heritage that has always tolerated other religions. Most of the large towns and cities are very cosmopolitan and make the visitor from western countries feel welcome. In this beautiful and diverse country, you can experience both wild nature, and life in the Arab world, with many of the comforts and courtesies of home.
This tour, arranged by and shared with our colleagues from Spanish Nature, is designed to be relaxing. Both the routes and sites have been carefully selected to give maximum opportunities for observing the ‘special’ birds of this region of Morocco, such as the rare and much sought-after Desert Sparrow. There are few ‘early’ mornings and no long distance walking required for this journey. Several past tours have recorded more than 200 species of birds. Our Spanish Nature guides are veterans of seven journeys to date and can’t wait to return to share it with us!
Referring to Morocco’s Sahara Desert…
“Why go? The answer is that when man has been there and undergone the baptism of solitude he can’t help himself. Once he has been under the spell of the vast, luminous, silent country, no other place is quite strong enough for him, no other surroundings can provide the supremely satisfying sensation of existing in the midst of something that is absolute. He will go back, whatever the cost in comfort or money, for the absolute has no price.”
FROM ‘Their heads are green and their hands are blue’ by Paul Bowles
ITINERARY
Tues., April 7 Arrival in Marrakech
Arrive today at the Menara International Airport (RAK) in Marrakech, Morocco. We will coordinate a group transfer to our very comfortable hotel where you can rest up a bit from your travels. Here we should get our first taste of Moroccan birdlife with both Common Bulbuls and House Buntings regularly appearing in the hotel gardens! Naturalist Journeys’ clients will meet a day ahead of the start of our safari to take in some of the cultural highlights of this famous market city. With local guides we visit the Medina, or central historic part of the city. Enjoy a fine introduction to this exotic destination as local guides interpret mosques, palaces, beautiful gardens and activity on the busy city squares. Marrakech originated in 1070 as a planned city on the Southwestern plains; today it is the third largest city in Morocco.
Our lodgings are located in a private sports complex in the Tagra district of Marrakech, which is away from the city center in the northwest section of the city. The complex has 9 suites with private bath, excellent food, a lovely pool and an outdoor terrace and bar. The suites are well appointed and spacious.
Accommodations at the Complexe Sportif Tagra, Marrakech. (D)
Wed., April 8 Marrakech & local birding / the Souk
Today we will drive to the outskirts of Marrakech to take in some local birds and sample locally grown mint tea in a scenic river valley. In the afternoon there will be an optional visit to the famous Souk, Morocco’s largest traditional market, in Marrakech, with a local guide. Above the city and market we also watch for such local birds as Little Swifts. In the evening we will be able to discuss highlights of our upcoming adventure over dinner and drinks. Sample traditional Moroccan cuisine – one of the on-going highlights of this journey.
Accommodations at the Complexe Sportif Tagra, Marrakech (B,L,D)
Thurs., April 9 Crossing the Atlas Mountains / Ouarzazate / Ait Benhaddou Kasbah World Heritage Site
After a leisurely breakfast we set out to discover the birds of the Atlas Mountains, driving at an unhurried pace to our next overnight stop in the southern reaches of Morocco at Ouarzazate. We take morning tea while enjoying the mountain views. From our high terraced cafe we should see many different species of birds, hopefully these might include the shy North African range-restricted Levaillant’s Woodpecker. A previous group added Moussier’s Redstart, another Morroccan specialty on this day in addition to sightings of migrant passerines and raptors.
We enjoy lunch near the top of a scenic Atlas pass, before making our way to the highest pass of this stunning mountain range: the famous Tizi-n-Tichka pass. Learn more about the geology of the rugged Atlas Mountains, where peaks reach 13,000 feet and snow may still linger at the highest reaches. Our visit is timed for the first month after the traditional rainy season, and we hope to see wildflowers in bloom as well as a flush of bird activity. At the highest pass we need to be watchful and hope to see Alpine Choughs, Horned Larks and Golden Eagles. Threading our way south through the river valley, we should find a good number of spring migrants. With luck we might spot Barbary Partridges, Lanner Falcons and Desert Wheatears.
The scenery for today’s journey is spectacular and changes from the green valleys of the north to the more arid south. Near the World Heritage site of the Ait Benhaddou Kasbah, movie makers have captured the scenery in films such as Jewel of the Nile, Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia. Our destination is the charming city of Ouarzazate which sits at the edge of a high desert plateau, bordering the Great Sahara region. The town is home to Morocco’s main film studios and the bizarre sight of film sets in the desert can be seen on our entrance to the town.
Hotel Riad Salem is styled on the traditional Kasbah architecture commonly seen south of the Atlas Mountains. The facility is large, with 4-star rooms, tennis courts, a large swimming pool, bar and restaurant.
Accommodations at the Hotel Riad Salam in Ouarzazate.
Fri., April 10 Draa Valley / Agdz / Zagora
This morning we set off to the southeast, following the scenic Draa Valley where we will search habitats along Morocco’s longest river as well as in the wadis (dry valleys, some with intermittent streams). Tall mountains rise on either side of the dramatic Draa Valley. Here we watch for migrants and elusive residents such as the beautiful Laughing Dove.
Enjoy lunch south of Agdz where our Kasbah (a watered oasis) is situated within the area’s famous palmery. Here we should see many firsts for our trip including beautiful Blue-cheeked Bee Eaters, raptors and House Buntings. Rising above the oasis, the stunning rock outcrop known as Jebel Kissane resembles the shape of the crockery used to prepare a Morrocan tagine.

White-crowned Black Wheatear
From our lunch stop we proceed along the valley towards our next overnight stay at Zagora. During the course of the journey we will visit wadis along the river and seek out more local speciality species including White Crowned Wheatears and Trumpeter Finches. The town of Zagora is surrounded by palm groves irrigated with water from the Draa River. It’s colourful, fascinating architecture blends with the surrounding red and ochre hills.
Our lodgings are simple, clean and comfortable and some have balconies overlooking the bar and pool area. All have private bath and air-conditioning. In the evening cool breezes flow through the patios, and we hope to dine alfresco.
Accommodations at the Kasbah Sirocco in Zagora.

Trumpeter Finches
Sat., April 11 Saharan Village of Mhamid / Draa Valley / Bedoin Camp
Join an optional early morning birding excursion to the lush palmery surrounding our Kasbah in Zagora, followed by a leisurely breakfast. Hopefully we might find Barbary Partridges and Fulvous Babblers. We then set off, meandering to our next destination, a desert camp outside of the southern Saharan village of M’hamid. Our journey continues south following the Draa through stone desert where we will take morning tea at Tamergroute. There will be many stops en route to bird and explore. Finally we notice that the stone is covered by the sands of the Sahara. We hope to locate Brown-necked Ravens, Desert Wheatears and other special birds such as Barbary Falcons along our route.
Our accommodations at the Camp are surprisingly comfortable and provide us a great place to enjoy the clear night skies and time around a campfire. This is luxury camping with a block of showers, washrooms and toilets. The isolation of the camp produces a peace and tranquil experience and the surrounding desert constantly changes its appearance with the different light throughout the day. We rarely see other people in this area and only the occasional passing camel train!

Desert Sparrows
Sun., April 12 Bedouin Camp / 4WD in the Sahara / Zagora
After sharing breakfast in this remarkable setting with our new friends the Desert Sparrows, we set off on our 4x4 safari into the sand desert to head for secluded dunes and oases. Here we enjoy a picnic lunch among the many bird species to be seen here. We hope to enjoy views of sandgrouses, larks and other typical desert species.
Afternoon tea will be taken at Tamergroute before we make our way back for our second night at our Kasbah in Zagora. We aim to arrive in Zagora with time to relax and clean up before dinner. The bar and terrace area of our Kasbah is set among palm trees and is both tranquil and relaxing. The food here is a favorite of previous guests.
Accommodations at the Kasbah Sirocco in Zagora (B,L,D)

Desert Wheatear
Mon., April 13 Zagora / Tazzarine / Auberge Derkaoua
We need an early start to our day, the only such early start of the tour! Today we travel from Zagora to Tazzarine (across the stone deserts) where we will stop for lunch. We then proceed to the Auberge Darkaoua for a 3 night stay at the famous oasis. The day’s travel of some 240 kilometres is easily the longest journey of our tour. In order to allow for several stops along the way, then our early start time is essential. During the course of the day, we hope to see several lark species, including our favourite the Hoopoe Lark and others such as Desert, White-crowned and Red-rumped Wheatears, Trumpeter Finches and many more species. Eventually we will arrive in good time at our accommodation the Kasbah Auberge Darkaoua. With 3 nights and 2 days here, there is time for those wishing to simply relax and enjoy the peace and quiet in the gardens of the hotel.
Auberge Derkaoua provides plenty of comforts in its rooms and bungalows. There is a restaurant serving delicious French and Moroccan cuisine and a bar. The landscaped grounds, irrigated with waters from a gushing artisan well, provide an ideal retreat from the harsh and arid desert beyond. Sunrise over the sand dunes of the Erg Chebbi, which occupies Morocco’s south-east corner, is the reason most travellers visit this part of the country. It is beloved by diplomats and expatriates who stay here for the almost monastic level of calm. It is one of Morocco’s most distinguished hotels, not opulent, but delicately restrained. A small, low-level hotel (named after the crumbling ruins of an old Sufi guesthouse), it is built of traditional mud bricks with window frames and doors painted green. There are various tents, shady benches and pavilions in which to shelter from the sun in the heat of the day.
Accommodations at Auberge Derkaoua. (B,L,D)
Tues., April 14 Merzouga / Sahara Dunes / Auberge Darkaoua
The hotel will act as our base while we search the surrounding deserts and wadis for migrants and typical desert species. With sparse desert surrounding us, the gardens and water fountain of our hotel provide attraction for many migrants. Anything is possible here!

Seebohmi Wheatear
Today we visit the areas surrounding Merzouga, the Erg Chebbi dunes (some of the most impressive in the whole of the Sahara) and, if time allows, we might look for Brown-necked Ravens around the outskirts of Rissani. The day should provide for many species being added to our already impressive bird list. We return at an early hour to our delightful hotel, where we can relax and, if so inclined, take a dip in the pool.
Dinner is a tremendous event, served sometimes under the stars with great panache. Bouchra the daughter of Michel, the former proprietor, works her way round the tables chatting to the guests in any language that is required. Her father, Michel, was a true, French Saharan. He was the son and grandson of colonels of the camel corps, and spent the bulk of his life teaching Tuareg children in central Algeria.
Accommodations at Auberge Darkaoua.

Houbara's Bustard
Wed., April 15 Desert Heartland / Lagoons / Auberge Darkaoua
After a relaxed breakfast, we begin our journey into the heart of the surrounding desert. Our quest for the day is to find as many species of sandgrouses as possible and to search for breeding Cream-coloured Coursers and Hoopoe Larks. With the aid of our local guides and tracker, we will search the area for the most elusive species in Morocco: Houbara’s Bustard!! For those not willing to end our day of desert birdwatching, a visit to the local lagoon to watch for sandgrouses is a must. While dry in some years, if there is water we may find Red-necked Phalaropes, Greater Flamingos, Marbled Teal, Spoonbill and a host of other species.
The approach road to our hotel can be a good place to find a Pin-tailed or Spotted Sandgrouse. Wandering around the hotel grounds early in the morning and last thing in the day can be extremely rewarding for finding migrants. We celebrate a great day and this superb venue with a special dinner – tonight the wine is on us!
Accommodations at Auberge Darkaoua.
Thurs., April 16 Boumalne de Dades / Tagdilt Track
Taking the opportunity to search gardens of the hotel grounds before and after breakfast, we then leave for our next destination: Boumalne de Dades. The journey will offer plenty of birding opportunities and the prospect of many species, hopefully including Bonelli’s Eagles among other raptors! We make particular effort to find Fulvous Babbler, a challenge for our guides!

Fulvous Babbler
We stop for a morning tea/coffee and lunch in or near the Gorges du Todra, one of the most impressive gorges in the whole of Morocco. Then it’s on to Boumalne de Dades which is built around the Oued Dades with its extensive palmeries. The area around the wadis are fertile and striking. We expect to reach our accommodation in good time for a relaxed evening. For those wishing to seek out the famous Tagdilt track, the early evening should provide time for a first peek.
Our hotel offers great veranda views across the plains and the valley. Again we will be able to enjoy a relaxing evening, surrounded by the Atlas Mountains and the Dades Valley. Our hotel has been recently renovated. It has 110 rooms, all beautifully designed and appointed with air-conditioning and private bath. You can check the Internet if you wish, enjoy the pool, br and restaurant and sun terrace with heated Jacuzzi. For dinner we savour the country’s cuisine, sampling a delicious Couscous, the famous Pastilla de Pichón (Pigeon Pie), the Moroccan soup Harira or the many varieties of Tagine with meat.
Accommodations at the Xaluca Dades Hotel, Boumaine de Dades (B,L,D)
Fri., April 17 Tagdilt Track / Ouarzazate Resevoir and local markets
After breakfast we head off to explore the Tagdilt Track and particularly to look for Red-rumped & Desert Wheatears, Thick-billed Larks, Fulvous Babblers and Trumpeter Finches. Many other species, including 4 different species of sandgrouses can be seen here, who knows, we might get very lucky and manage to find the elusive Mourning Wheatear.
From the Tagdilt Track, we will make our way toward our next destination, Ouarzazate. Enjoy a chance to explore local markets and shops here. We also allow time to explore the large reservoir near to the town. For many birds this is the first glimpse of water after crossing the Sahara and we never know what we may find.

Spectacled Warbler
The area surrounding Ouarzazate and Tiffoultoute is stone desert and foothills. The desert here is noticeably more covered with scrub which provides welcome cover for small migrants. Babary and Lanner Falcons may be seen here. We return to our comfortable hotel on the river, and after dinner visit a site known only to us to look for Pharaoh Eagle Owls!
Accommodations at the Hotel Riad-Salam, Ouarzazate (B,L,D)

Short-toed Lark
Sat., April 18 Tiffoultoute / Departures (or go on to extension)
From a pleasant breakfast we depart and search areas on route to Marrakech. First, we stop to see the ruins and town of Tiffoultoute, before making our way slowly to Touflian. stopping along our journey looking for elusive species such as Cream-colored Coursers, Short-horned Larks and Rock Sparrows. From Touflian we begin our ascent of the Atlas Mountains. We expect to have time to explore the area around our lunch stop near Tizi-n-Tichka pass in the High Atlas. At our lunch stop we hope to be able to find Barbary Falcons and perhaps Seebhomi Wheatears. We have time to do some birding after lunch and on our way to the airport in Marrakech where some of our group return for home. For those on the extension, it is time to continue on across the Mediterranean for the Spain’s Andalusia region and more delights of nature. We bid fond farewells to those departing.

North Morocco and Spain's Andalusia extension
April 18 – 24, 2009
A short description, please contact us for further details.
April 18 Dinner and Evening in Marrakech
April 19 Travel to Rabat – Cultural trip and birdwatching
April 20 Travel to Asilah – Nature and birdwatching
April 21 Crossing the Straits of Gibralter by ferry to Ronda, Spain – Nature and Birdwatching
April 22-23 Highlights of birding and nature in Ronda
April 24 Malaga and flights home

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Cost of the Journey
Cost of the 11N/12 day main journey is $3990.00* from Marrakech, Morocco, based on double occupancy. Cost of the extension $TBD from Marrakech, departing Malaga, Spain.
These costs include all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, transportation while in Morocco, airport transfers, professional guide services, other park and program entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses.
Tour and extension costs doe not include: round-trip transportation from your home city to Marrkech; optional activities or items of a personal nature such as optional sightseeing, laundry, telephone charges, maid gratuities, or beverages from the bar.
Single supplement is $485.00
*This cost is based on the average exchange rate for the fluctuating
EURO/dollar relationship. It is based on 1.5 EURO:1USD. Since Nov. 2007, the rate has ranged from about 1.42 to almost 1.6. If it changes significantly up or down between date of this posting (Sept. 12, 2008) and payment due dates, we will adjust accordingly - for swings of .25 or more.
Group Size
Maximum of 14, minimum of 4. Tour price is based on 8 persons,
with fewer than 8 a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply.
Pace of the Tour
Leisurely paced but in remote locations, so flexibility and a sense of adventure are a must! No long walks or exploration amid extreme terrain. The journey does include one night of tented camping with shared bath facilities.Weather can be hot in some locations, and there is a chance for wind and sand storms while near the Sahara.
Travel Arrangements
More information to come.
Photo
credits
All photos provided by Peter Jones, Spanish Nature.
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